Selfless Act of Kindness--Catching the Wave

Wow! Surfing was a passion for me, one day I'm gonna try knee boarding

Joe

Truthfully, I am afraid to go into the ocean for two reasons. Even if I could roll into the breakers, and I would have to limit myself to smaller ones to start, I'm not sure I could overcome undercurrents to get back out. Depending on others for my safety and "deliverance" is not a comfortable place for me. Then, there is the matter of scaring people with pesky round brown "seaweed". Having been in water since I was paralyzed, and I miss it terribly. Especially the waves...there is nothing so lovely as the feeling of lying on your bed after a day in the waves and feeling that motion still inside your body, literally!

I do not know of any. The liability would be too great... Only because Martín Passeri is such an amazing surfer/swimmer and person, and he knew that Nicolás Gallegos would die happy if on that wave (a famous break), did he even think of doing this. Plus there were many to back them up, and the emotional energy must have been overwhelming!!! It was a stunning act for him to voluntarily disqualify himself from the competition that he was favored to win in order to realize his paralyzed friend's dream. This was not a spontaneous act, but planned ahead without Gallego's knowledge.  Great photo taken from different angle than video, click to enlarge:


My lack of B&B control keep me from attempting to enter the water. But I can still lie on my bed and dream... Some people dream of sex, I dream of waves (still 1-2X week)! My surfing soul brother, Alejo, howls for me on the waves now--that means a lot to me, and he knows I'm his biggest fan! Here he is, living the dream in Costa Rica in his surf kayak (as I would be doing) while his friend surfs a short board (white t-shirt and board):

I love to watch the videos my friends make of kayaking as I would like to be doing.  And they like having such a rabid audience!!!!

One of my all-time favorite places to paddle is here, and especially with Nick Schade (in beautiful wooden kayak he made!):

This is a tidal race, and runs hard and fast at certain points in the tidal cycle.  Water is relatively shallow, so waves are peaky and chaotic, pleasantly challenging.  I have the same kayak as the white one, but mine is yellow. And I use a bent shaft paddle. I hope to sell them this year, so someone really gets to enjoy them. I will miss my kayaks, and am so grateful that I played so hard in them when I did!!! Didn't wait for retirement, just leapt in and loved it again!

Still shots from same area, just gorgeous! Click to enlarge. 
    First one, he missed the wave, not positioned properly when it arose.

   Second pic is us trying to get through post-hurricane surf off Rhode Island coast--pretty scary stuff!!!

Hey Wave....now I'm totally contented with Scuba Diving